Rural Spain has yet to accept the internet, I can understand the hill towns and villages as they are mostly inhabited by the older person or the aged community and they live a simple and relaxed life or it seems so anyway. But places like Zafra,Merida and here in Caceres all towns with over 50,000 people and maybe 1 internet site in Merida none at all, even Hostals and Hotels do not have one.(saves you from my ramblings)
Los Santos de Maimona, Villafranca de los Barros, Almendralejo, Torremegia, Merida, El Carrascalego, Aljucen, Crus de San Juan, Alcuescar, Casas de Don Antonio Valdesalor and now Caceres I have passed through these towns as have so many before me armies, pilgrims and travellers their traces are there to be seen but these days by only a few. The Romans have left a lot behind many mileage posts remain as do fences, roads and bridges, there has been a return to preservation of these and not to late either. As I pass through the towns I make the detour and pass the main square although the churches are locked there are always the shell(scallop) and sword of Santiago imbedded on the walls or doors most of these are from the 10th to 12 century, amazingly there are many hospitals some still used as in Merida which treated the pilgrims. In Merida it is run by the church and Pilgrims were either given the last rites or could be forgiven their sins by the priests and when well return to their home thus not needing to go to Santtiago(buggered if I could find a priest) so must keep walking.
I have been 8 days and covered 299 km´s as per my guide, I am averaging 37.4 km´s a day(not bad for an old fellow with small feet) I am ahead of schedule so have taken an extra 8 hours off today and will start walking at 6pm with a short stroll of 23km´s for my next stop. It has been extremely hot and the local folk think I am crazy! at times in the desert it had to be well over 45c, but mostly I try and get between 35 and 45k done by 2pm after that it is very difficult to walk. I now carry between 4 and 6 litres of water(6 kilos in weight) one litre is to keep the towell that I wear over my head and shoulders damp for as long as possible. The walking has been mountainous, through vineyards, farms,national parks(usually desert) during all this I have not talked to or seen another Pilgrim, maybe there is only one person mad enough to try it at this time of the year!
I thank you for all the emails and concern for my health, except for my American, New York born jewish brother that was defamatory to say the least about my stubby feet and fingers, Marc"do I look beautiful today" levine you must look beyond my extremities and search out positives.
While we are philosphying Lucius Annaeus Seneca who lived in Rome from 4BC to 65 AD during the time the path I am taking was built, he was the tutor for Emperor Nero, and he said "its not the length of life that matters but how it is lived"(way before "nike")
In Spain most people still smoke, they communicate verbally non stop engaging in conversations where you can have 4 or 5 people all talking at the same time! even though I cannot communicate we manage and on the whole the people are very friendly and engaging. I have translated a few menus from my pocket book dictionary waiting to be served dinner once being served by the chef in his shorts and nothing else, time is of little importance. As I walk I think of so many things to write but at the end of the day it is all about trying to get my feet ready for the next day, physically I feel great and mentally I am in a very nice place, life is good.
I do not think Rosie will mind, Rosie is the lady I am raising the money for but I received an email from her that she has been back in hospital having operations on her chest, Rosies email was R. Glasson, I did not take it in at first I thought it was from my mate Chuck Glass, initials R. Glass I was wondering why Chuck was having his breasts done!! but then again that would not surprise me.
Next target is Salamanca the half way mark.
My old travelling mate Dennis has been sending me Spanish emails, so I will sign of
Le molesta que de de pecho acqui?(sometimes you have to be careful with spanish)
Ian
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
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Hi Tubby, was waiting for text, arrived in Seville safe & well, but then remembered your texting skills are not that crash hot and I cannot text your phone. It wasn't till Reg arrived that he reminded me of your blog. Glad things are progressing as planned or is that unplanned. Needed a few more litres of water than you anticipated??? All that practice in Waterford going all day without a drink didn't really help. Anyway you have finally realised how hot and how much water you need and are making great progress.
ReplyDeleteReg has arrived safe and well and we are off to do Spain the leisurely way. Sitting by the pool sipping long cold iced drinks to ensure we don't dehydrate.
Take care!! Now that's going to fall on deaf ears I am sure.
Cheers Sandra
you sound like your having a great time tub :) lucky buggar!!
ReplyDeletecan't believe how hot it is over there. Well you are doing better than us..we only averaged about 28kms a day..so well done..
are there really no other people out there??? well they must all be on the "French Road".
any chance of putting a photo on??? what to see how your looking..
lots of love..
Buen Camino
mish xxxx